Nissan R32 – 1990 Gr.A Piumini (Yellow) #22 Hi-Land (JTCC)

I used the Kyosho “MZN201 – Skyline GT-R R32 Group A Specifications” white body to build this livery. You can find a description of this body here.

The car appears to have run in the 1990 JTCC. From Wikipedia, the team “Object T” has switched car from the Ford Sierra RS to the Nissan R32 for the Round 5 and 6.

At the Round 5, at the Sendai Highland circuit, the car had the yellow livery and for the Round 6 at the Fuji Speedway circuit, they use a “reversed” livery with a blue body and yellow graphics. Kyosho had released an Autoscale with the blue livery.

The only photo I could find:

However, there is a YouTube video in the reference section linked bellow that shows the car in action.

In 2009, Fujimi had also release a model kit (ref.06268) with the two liveries (yellow and blue) as options.

Kyosho has only released the blue version, so we have here an opportunity to make the yellow version.

I’ll update this article as I find further information about it.

Decals design & body colors

No challenge with the decals design as I have used as reference a picture of the Fujimi decals and the decals sheet of Shunko Decals.

I went with the MR.COLOR C329 Yellow paint as indicated by Fujimi and Shunko. The body is yellow only, so it should be an easy painting job.

Body preparation

As I usually do, the body was sanded to remove all the parting lines and all groves have been reengraved give a better ‘depth’ to the look of the car.

Then it was primed in white color using the MR.COLOR primer diluted with the MR-COLOR xxx.

Painting the body

As indicated earlier, there is just one color to apply. The first two layers are thin then followed by two thick coats.

There was some ‘Smoke’ paint leak that will be cleaned off with a light sanding and eventually some yellow paint.

That’s all before applying the decals. The glasses surround and the radiator will be painted in satin black after having applied the decals and the gloss varnish.

Decals

We’ve sent the decals to be printed using the traditional offset process. This way we obtain real decals with precuts.

To apply the decals, we use the MR.COLOR products, MR.MARK SOFTER and MR.MARK SETTER. instead of the MR.MARK SOFTER, you can also use a low power heat gun to soften the decals further when needed. The target is to make sure there is no air bubbles between the decals and the paint.

All decals are applied
All decals are applied
All decals are applied
All decals are applied

One of the purposes of re-engraving the groves is to be able to apply some Panel Line Accent Color from Tamiya. This is a personal choice. If you do not plan to put the panel line color, you probably can pass the re-engraving step. Because the Tamiya Panel Line color is an enamel base product, it can be easily cleaned-up with their X-20 thinner. It will not damage the paint and the decals.

The Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color is easy to be applied.

I think the body look better with the panel line color applied.

Varnishing

We use the gloss varnish from MR.COLOR Gx112. We first applied two light layers, then several thick layers of varnish.

After varnishing, you can either let the varnish as it is or decide to sand and polish the body to smooth the surface. After polishing, the shine of the varnish is back but it will still not be as shiny as after varnishing. I think it’s fine because the real race cars are never shiny.

Several layers of clear coat have been applied

After several days drying, I’ve decided to smooth the surface by sand the body carefully.

Then I’ve applied a highly diluted layer of varnish to smooth the surface.

Finishing the body

the last painting job is to apply a black satin color to the windows and windshield surroundings as well on the radiator.

Then, we painted the front lights with a chrome color, here the AK Chrome.

The lights glasses have received light layers of transparent orange paint. Then, they were masked to be able to apply a layer of black satin to imitate the sealing.

Finally, all parts are put together to complete the car.

Photos

Conclusion

This was an easy livery to complete. What took the most time is the design of the livery, as usual. I now need finf the sister bodu, the one with the reversed colors.